Pearson St 816 Ferndale - Full Report.pdf

Lynn Marie East Petitioner V City Of Ferndale Respondent · 26-002394-TT

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Inspection Report

Lynn and Floyd East

Property Address:

816 Pearson St.

Ferndale MI 48220

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

Blake and Grant Jeffries

1835 Sylvan Glen

Keego Harbor, MI 48320

(800) 941-9034

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

Page 1 of 81

Table of Contents

Cover Page.................................................................1

Table of Contents........................................................2

Intro Page ...................................................................3

Summary.....................................................................5

1 Introductory Notes..................................................13

2 Exterior...................................................................15

3 Garage...................................................................23

4 Roofing...................................................................25

5 Attic........................................................................34

6 Chimneys & Fireplaces..........................................38

7 Structure ................................................................40

8 Plumbing................................................................45

9 Electrical ................................................................50

10 Heating and Cooling ............................................54

11 Interiors ................................................................58

12 Kitchen.................................................................67

13 Bathrooms............................................................70

14 Laundry................................................................72

15 Additional Information ..........................................73

Invoice.......................................................................81

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

Page 2 of 81

Date: 9/22/2025

Time: 11:50 AM

Report ID: Pearson St. 816,

Ferndale

Property:

816 Pearson St.

Ferndale MI 48220

Customer:

Lynn and Floyd East

Real Estate Professional:

Scope

This inspection is a non-invasive examination of readily accessible systems and components as outlined in the Standards of

Practice of the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or your specific standards. In compliance, our reports are

subject the the Definitions, Scope, Limitations, Exceptions and Exclusions as outlined in the Standards of Practice. A copy of

the Standards of Practice may be obtained from you inspector or visit ASHI's website at www.ASHI.org.

In general, home inspections include a visual examination of readily accessible systems and components to help identify

material defects as they exist at the time of the inspection. This is not a technically exhaustive inspection and will not

necessarily list all minor home maintenance or repair items. Latent, inaccessible or concealed defects are excluded from this

inspection. Inspectors do not move furniture, appliances, personal items or other materials that may limit his/her inspection.

We do not report on cosmetic or aesthetic issues. Unless otherwise stated, this is not a code inspection. We did not test for

environmental hazards or the presence of any potential harmful substance.

Use of reports

If the inspection is performed in connection with the sale, exchange or transfer of the property, copies of the report may be

provided to the principals in the transaction and their agents. However, the report is for your sole information and benefit. We

do not intend for anyone but the person(s) listed on this report to benefit, directly or indirectly, from this agreement and

inspection report. Our contractual relationship is only to the person(s) purchasing our report/service.

Inspection Agreement

BY ACCEPTANCE OF OUR INSPECTION REPORT, YOU ARE AGREEING TO THE TERMS OF OUR INSPECTION

AGREEMENT. A copy of this agreement was made available to you at the inspection or by email where you had the

opportunity to review it and ask questions. You should review the liability limitations and terms of the agreement carefully

before accepting the inspection report. Should you discover a defect for which we may be liable to you, you must notify us

and give us a reasonable opportunity to re-inspect the property before you repair the defect.

As part of many real estate transactions are contingencies limiting the time available for follow-up inspections, repair work or

further inquiries. We are not responsible for and investigations that are not completed prior to the end of the contingency

period.

Report Definitions

The following definitions of comment descriptions represent this inspection report. All comments by the inspector should be

considered before purchasing this home. Any recommendations by the inspector to repair or replace suggests a second

opinion or further inspection by a qualified contractor. All costs associated with further inspection fees and repair or

replacement of item, component or unit should be considered before you purchase the property.

Inspected (IN) = I visually observed the item, component or unit and if no other comments were made then it appeared to be

functioning as intended allowing for normal wear and tear.

Not Inspected (NI)= I did not inspect this item, component or unit and made no representations of whether or not it was

functioning as intended and will state a reason for not inspecting.

Not Present (NP) = This item, component or unit is not in this home or building. Not Present items will be noted only in the

Report and will NOT be in the Summary. Please read the entire report and consider items or components that are not

present.

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

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Repair/Replacement = The item, component or unit is not functioning as intended, or needs further inspection by a

qualified contractor. Items, components or units that can be repaired to satisfactory condition may not need replacement.

Also items that pose a safety concern and items that the inspector feels are a more immediate concern/need.

Consideration = The item should be monitored and repair/replacement should be considered. This section also includes

definitions, helpful tips, recommended upgrades, conditions requiring repair due to normal wear and conditions that have not

significantly affected usability or function - but may if left unattended.

Standards of Practice:

ASHI American Society of Home Inspectors

In Attendance:

Customer and their agent

Type of building:

Single Family (2 story)

Style of Home:

Bungalow

Approximate age of building:

Over 100 years

Building Faces:

South

Temperature:

50 to 60 degrees

Weather:

Light Rain

Ground/Soil surface condition:

Damp

Lot Topography:

Generally flat

Rain in last 3 days:

Yes

Radon Test:

Yes - see separate report

Water Test:

No

Wood Destroying Insect Inspection

Performed:

Not requested

Environmental Review:

Radon only - no other environmental review

performed

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

Page 4 of 81

Summary

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

1835 Sylvan Glen

Keego Harbor, MI 48320

(800) 941-9034

Customer

Lynn and Floyd East

Address

816 Pearson St.

Ferndale MI 48220

The following items or discoveries indicate that these systems or components do not function as intended or

adversely affects the habitability of the dwelling; or warrants further investigation by a specialist, or requires

subsequent observation. This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component

to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function or efficiency of the home.

As used in the Summary, "Repair/Replace" refers to a system or component that is not functioning as intended and is in

need of Repair or Replacement. Also it includes items that are a safety concern as well as items that the inspector feels

need more immediate attention; and "Consideration" refers to a system or component that should be monitored and some

repair and/or replacement should be considered. This section also includes helpful tips, recommendations and conditions

that require repair due to normal wear and tear but have not significantly affected usability or function, but may if left

unattended. This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of

concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.

Repair/Replace

SIDING/WALL CLADDING

Inspected

1. (3) Gaps/holes in the soffits/overhang at the right side of the house, above the front porch, and rear left of the house

should be sealed against the weather to prevent water intrusion and damage.

TRIM

Inspected

2. Decayed trim should be fully evaluated and repaired and replaced as needed and kept well finished against the weather.

The wood exterior trim needs painting soon as the finish is worn and/or peeling. Paint always lasts longer when preceded

by proper preparation. Make sure the wood is completely dry before painting; remove any loose paint and prime bare

wood areas before applying a finish coat. Paint maintenance is especially important to prevent decay in the ""paint grade

spruce"" wood trim now in common use. When areas are painted expect the painters to possibly find some soft wood from

water damage that might need replacement. Budget for isolated wood replacements as part of the painting process.

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

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816 Pearson St.

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GRADING, DRAINAGE AND RETAINING WALLS (With respect to their effect on the condition of the building)

Inspected

3. We suggest regrading as needed to assure all water drains away from the foundation (left, rear, and right side of the

house) without covering siding. Controlling water around the foundation is the single biggest factor in reducing the

chances for water infiltration into the structure. Nearly every structure we inspect has room for improvement.

DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES, PATIO/ COVER AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS

Inspected

4. (1) Some cracking, rotting, and warping of the front deck boards. Any loose or uneven boards should be repaired or

replaced to prevent a trip and fall.

The deck finish is worn and refinishing is needed to protect against deterioration.

OTHER INFORMATION

Informational

5. The garage is very worn down and should be replaced. The seller indicated the garage is not safe to walk in. The walls/

siding, roofing, garage doors should all be replaced.

ROOF COVERINGS

Inspected

6. (3) The garage roof covering is beyond the end of its useful life and should be replaced at this time. Cost estimates

should be obtained.

7. (4) The tree limbs that are in contact with roof or hanging near roof should be trimmed to prevent damage to the shingles.

ROOF DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

Inspected

8. (1) We suggest extending all downspout drainage well away from the foundation to reduce the chances of water

intrusion into the structure.

9. (3) Sections of the gutters were filled with water at the time of this inspection, indicating improper drainage, which could

promote water penetration of the building and damage to exterior and interior building elements and finishes.

-SUGGESTION: All gutters should be cleaned. The condition of the gutters can be evaluated after the debris has been

removed.

10. (4) Missing downspout section at front right of house should be installed to help provide proper drainage and avoid

damage.

Missing end cap on front left corner of the garage should be replaced to help provide proper drainage and avoid

damage.

GENERAL ATTIC CONDITIONS

Inspected

11. (1) Rodent droppings noted in the attic. We suggest obtaining the history of any pest activity and having evaluated and

treated as needed by a qualified pest control operator.

FIREPLACE CONDITION

Inspected

12. (2) Creosote and/or soot build-up noted in the chimney. Creosote is a naturally produced flammable by product of

combustion. Its presence is a limiting factor on a visual review. We suggest having cleaned and evaluated (request an

NFPA Level II inspection) by a qualified fireplace and chimney specialist.

BASEMENT FOUNDATION MOISTURE CONDITIONS

Inspected

13. (1) White efflorescence (powder substance) on block wall indicates moisture is in contact with the masonry (signs of

active water intrusion/seepage at the front right corner and rear left corner of the house). This does not

necessarily indicate that intrusion will occur. I recommend checking the gutters and the downspout drain lines for proper

operation. Also, a water proofing paint could be applied to the interior side of the block if necessary. Efflorescence is

found on many homes without water intrusion occurring inside the home. But, it should alert you to the possibility that

future steps may be needed.

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

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NOTE: See roof drainage notes and grading notes in the exterior for more information.

14. (2) Some block areas need tuckpointing to help shed water at the front right corner of the house. Tuckpointing is the

process of replacing loose/missing mortar on the block.

WATER HEATER

Inspected

15. (2) The piping for pressure relief valve is missing. Correction advised. The relief valve is an important safety component

and it should discharge close to the floor, with the right size piping, in a conspicuous location. The end should not be

threaded so it cannot be capped, which could cause an explosion. This is an easy repair.

WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES

Inspected

16. (1) Galvanized water lines rust from the inside out and become restricted over time. This plumbing is beyond its

expected lifespan. Maintenance and eventual pipe replacement (which may require opening walls and ceilings) should

be anticipated with galvanized piping systems.

17. (2) Shower diverter does not send adequate flow to the shower head at the bathroom; the diverter needs repair or

replacement.

PLUMBING DRAIN, WASTE AND VENT SYSTEMS

Inspected

18. (4) The plumbing vent pipe is open to the attic space (that is no longer used), but should still be closed off to prevent any

water intrusion that could occur.

EXTERIOR, GARAGE & ATTIC ELECTRIC

Inspected

19. Missing light fixture above the rear entry door should be installed to prevent accidental contact with electrical wires.

BATHROOM ELECTRIC

Inspected

20. We suggest having GFCI protection provided at bathroom outlet(s). Although likely not required when built, this is an

important safety upgrade. GFCI receptacle outlets are relatively inexpensive.

KITCHEN ELECTRIC

Inspected

21. (1) We suggest having GFCI protection provided at all kitchen outlets. Although likely not required when built, this is an

important safety upgrade. GFCI receptacle outlets are relatively inexpensive.

22. (2) The oven and microwave are both plugged into an outlet that is hanging from its wires. Each of these should have

their own outlet, secured inside a junction box with a coverplate, each with a dedicated circuit for safety purposes.

AIRCONDITIONER (A/C) OPERATION

Inspected

23. The AC compressor did not operate/run when tested. We tried 3 different times with the thermostat and switching the

breaker on and off and the compressor was only humming and never began to run. The unit is 24 years and and it may

be more cost effective to have it replaced rather than trying to repair it.

WINDOWS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER)

Inspected

24. There are cracked glass in some windows throughout home.

Sampled windows operated stiffly and some were stuck or painted shut. We suggest that you loosen and clean as

necessary for easier operation. All windows should be cycled at least once a year as a good maintenance practice. We

recommend that there is at least one easily operable window and storm unit in each room for fire egress.

There are windows that have peeling paint. Refinishing is now needed to protect the wood from deterioration.

The windows are old and will likely require on-going maintenance.

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

Page 7 of 81

WALLS

Inspected

25. Peeling paint was noted under the window with the AC unit in the front first floor bedroom. We tested this area with a

moisture meter and it was damp at the time of the inspection. This is likely due to the old windows and condensation

form the AC unit. We suggest removing the plaster/drywall in this area to ensure it is fully dried out before re-finishing to

prevent mold/mildew growth.

STEPS, STAIRWAYS, BALCONIES AND RAILINGS

Inspected

26. (1) Loose railing(s) at the upstairs should be properly secured to help prevent slip and fall

27. (2) Open riser style steps at stairs to basement is a fall hazard for young children. Steps should be taken to prevent fall

through.

The basement stair stringers (sides of steps) are separating from the treads. Suggest having secured or re-supported as

needed for proper support.

The one side of the stairs to the basement/lower level is open and should have a railing or a wall to prevent a trip and/or

fall type accident.

BUILT IN MICROWAVE

Inspected

28. The microwave is close to the range top. We suggest checking the manufacturer's installation instructions to see if it is

allowed to be this close. If not, it should be remounted appropriately to prevent overheating and damage.

TOILETS

Inspected

29. The toilet bowl in the bathroom is loose at the floor anchor bolts. The wax ring inside the unit must have a snug, secure

fit in order to prevent leaks and damage. Resealing, leveling and re-securing this unit is advised, prior to use.The

flooring in this area should be checked for damage.

Consideration

CLIENT ADVICE

Informational

30. (1) Please read the inspection report's summary where the Repair/Replace comments list a detailed description of

conditions that need immediate attention, and details on repairs that are likely to be costly. Also, the Consideration

comments, have a list of definitions, helpful tips, recommended upgrades, items that should be monitored, non-critical

conditions requiring repair that arise due to normal wear and tear and the passage of time and conditions that have not

significantly affected usability or function - but may if left unattended.

SIDING/WALL CLADDING

Inspected

31. (1) The aluminum siding is dented in areas. This is typically a cosmetic defect.

32. (2) Some block areas need tuckpointing to help shed water. Tuckpointing is the process of replacing loose/missing

mortar on the brick.

33. (4) Missing/loose corner cap at the front dormer on the aluminum siding that needs to be replaced to prevent water

intrusion and damage.

DOORS (Exterior)

Inspected

34. (1) Damaged mesh on the doorwall screen that needs repair or replacement to keep insects out.

35. (2) Weatherstripping is damaged or missing and is needed at the main entry and rear entry to home to help prevent

airflow and reduce energy costs.

36. (3) The door knob is very loose at the front entry door and should be tightened/secured as needed.

DRIVEWAY/WALKS/PATIOS LEADING TO ENTRANCE(S)

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

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816 Pearson St.

Page 8 of 81

Inspected

37. Common cracking and minor settlement noted at driveway. Sealing the cracks can help reduce the chances of

settlement from water intrusion. If the settlement threatens to become a trip hazard it should be corrected.

FAUCETS

Inspected

38. Off/inoperable at the front and right side of the house at time of inspection. We suggest verifying operation.

DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES, PATIO/ COVER AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS

Inspected

39. (2) The wall at the front porch is too low for safety. Railings should be at least 36 inches above the level of the walking

surface to minimize the chance of someone falling over them. Have a qualified carpenter provide repair specifications

and costs, and perform the work.

40. (3) The front porch is slightly slanted, which is typical to see in older houses with the old front porches. We could not see

any of the structure underneath this area.

FENCING

Inspected

41. The wood fencing is weathered/worn and refinishing is needed to protect the wood against deterioration.

OTHER INFORMATION

Informational

42. (1) We suggest caulking/sealing the exterior as needed to help shed water and to maximize energy efficiency. Pay

attention to all openings and gaps as well as old caulk that has deteriorated.

43. (2) Vegetation on the property should be maintained to prevent overgrowth and encroachment onto and possible

damage to the structure.

ROOF COVERINGS

Inspected

44. (1) Mineral loss is generally minimal but moderate in some areas and the shingles are generally flexible. The shingles

generally lay flat and where checked were adhered well. This type of shingle will typically last 200-25 years before

needing to be replaced, and we estimate this roof to be approximately 10-15 years old.

45. (2) There is moss or other plant growth on the shingles that should be treated and removed. The moss usually forms on

north facing sections and/or areas that are shaded by trees. If not treated and removed this could shorten the life

expectancy of the shingles

FLASHINGS

Inspected

46. (1) We advise sealing all exposed fasteners to reduce the chances for moisture penetration. As part of routine

maintenance, caulking around the fasteners should be periodically checked and resealed as needed.

47. (2) In our examination of the roof, we noted one or more areas where flashing was not visible. The function of flashing is

to seal the joints that occur between roofing materials, roof penetrations, walls or other structural features. Because

flashing is installed under roofing and siding materials, it is common for it to be not visible. We cannot verify its presence.

Any joint that has missing, damaged or improperly installed flashing can be a leak source.

- SUGGESTION: If the home has no history of leaks in this area, the client should simply monitor the location(s) for any

sign of leakage. Have a qualified roofing contractor repair any flashing, visible or not, if leaks are present or develop in

the area(s).

48. (3) Saddle/cricket upgrade advised at chimney to help shed water. Saddles and crickets are flashed roofing features that

help divert water around an object that blocks or slows the flow of water.

VALLEYS

Inspected

49. There are leaves and debris from trees in the valleys that should be periodically cleaned to prevent damage to the

shingles. This can also lead to water intrusion and ice damming.

ROOF DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

Inspected

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

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816 Pearson St.

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50. (2) Downspout(s) drain onto the roof surface. Although a common practice, we suggest alternate drainage (directly to

gutters or grade) to reduce the chances of roof leaks and accelerated roof wear.

51. (5) The gutter appears to leak at the seam on the front right corner of the covered porch. This can lead to deterioration of

the fascia trim and I recommend cleaning and apply gutter sealant or epoxy.

GENERAL ATTIC CONDITIONS

Inspected

52. (2) We suggest installing insulation on the back side of the attic access hatch/door to improve energy efficiency and

reduce drafts.

ATTIC INSULATION

Inspected

53. We suggest having the insulation upgraded to reduce your fuel bills. A qualified insulation contractor can help you

determine the proper upgrade and determine payback periods for the various options available.

FIREPLACE CONDITION

Inspected

54. (1) The hearth for the fireplace at the family room is supported by combustible framing. The support for natural fireplace

hearth extensions should be at least two inches thick and should be supported by noncombustible materials to reduce

the risk of fire.

BASEMENT FOUNDATION MOISTURE CONDITIONS

Inspected

55. (3) The sellers have reportedly disclosed past water infiltration. We advise obtaining the full history of any water

problems and any corrective actions taken, as well as any warranty paperwork, if applicable.

FOUNDATION INSULATION

Inspected

56. There are voids in the insulation at the rim joists (area of framing that sits on top of the foundation walls). Since this area

is above ground, we suggest insulating to improve energy efficiency

Subflooring Conditions (as visible from the basement or crawl space)

Inspected

57. There are water stains on the subfloor in the area under the bathrooms, kitchen, and family room area. The area was dry

at the time of this inspection, and no damage was apparent. - SUGGESTION: We recommend periodic inspection of this

area to check for signs of active leakage.

Structural Post and Column Conditions

Inspected

58. There is/are a steel adjustable floor support(s) (often referred to as lally or Floor jacks) in the basement. These posts are

often installed to stiffen the floor system or to help prevent sagging of the floor. In some jurisdictions they are not an

approved support device. SUGGESTION: Consult with the local building authorities about the post and have a qualified

contractor make any required repairs.

PLUMBING DRAIN, WASTE AND VENT SYSTEMS

Inspected

59. (2) Rust and corrosion was noted at various areas. The plumbing should be cleaned and repaired as needed and on-

going maintenance anticipated.

60. (3) Drum traps were noted in the home. Common in older homes, these are outdated traps that are prone to clogging.

As long as they are functional, there is no reason to replace them. We suggest you replace drum traps at such time as

they require maintenance.

61. (5) Short plumbing vents noted exiting the roof. Short vents tend to be prone to snow/frost closure. If drains should have

problems such as gurgling or sluggish drainage after a snowfall or severe cold they should be properly extended.

INTERIOR LIVING SPACE ELECTRIC

Inspected

62. (1) Three-prong ungrounded receptacle outlet(s) noted at most outlets in the home should be corrected for safety.

63. (2) Some lights are inoperable. Often, this is due to burned out bulbs. We suggest you verify function prior to close.

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

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OTHER INFORMATION

Informational

64. Our inspectors randomly test receptacles, switches and fixtures. We typically test not less than one outlet per room and

all outlets within six feet of a water source. Each and every wiring device will not be evaluated. Wiring devices blocked

by furniture or personal goods will not be tested.

Because of the presence of personal belongings, access was restricted and some of the receptacles were not inspected.

FORCED AIR FURNACE

Inspected

65. (1) Furnace.

The furnace is older (18 years old) but did work at time of inspection. I am unable to determine life remaining. Suggest

that you budget for replacement.

FILTERS & DUCTWORK

Inspected

66. (1) Recommend upgrading the current 30 day filter to a 90 day filter. This will fit into the same slot as the present filter

but is more efficient.

67. (2) Debris noted in vents; we suggest having the ductwork cleaned and inspected.

OUTSIDE A/C COMPRESSOR NOTES

Inspected

68. (1) The insulation on the suction line is deteriorated at the outside unit. Missing insulation on a suction line can cause

energy loss and condensation. New insulation should be installed. This is an easy repair.

OTHER INFORMATION

Informational

69. The upper floor of bungalows often do not heat or cool well. Home buyers often find it necessary to install new ductwork

or supplemental heating/cooling.

DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER)

Inspected

70. (1) The door(s) at hit the wall when opened due to missing and/or damaged door stop(s). The stop(s) need repair or

new ones installed to protect the adjacent wall from damage.

71. (2) Loose knob/handle at some of the doors. The handles need tightening to restore proper operation.

72. (3) The door at the walk-in closet at the second floor does not latch. This usually is a simple adjustment of the strikeplate

and/or hinge that restores proper operation.

CEILINGS

Inspected

73. (1) Patching noted at the second floor walk-in closet. We suggest obtaining the maintenance history.

74. (2) Peeling paint noted on the ceilings in the second floor bedroom and the front first floor bedroom, we tested these

areas with a moisture meter and they were both dry at the time of the inspection.

FLOORS

Inspected

75. (1) I recommend silicone caulk along floor and tub at bathroom.

76. (2) The floor squeaks noticeable in this house indicate loose subfloor nails rather than a structural problem. Correction is

not necessary, but, if desired, the definitive repair is to secure the subfloor with zinc coated screws when floor coverings

are replaced. Note that wood wedges between the sub-floor and the floor joists sometimes increase the problem.

77. (3) Carpets are dirty and stained in some areas and it is unknown whether the stains can be removed. Have a

professional carpet cleaning company evaluate or consider replacement.

78. (4) The vinyl tiles in the kitchen and bathroom are cracked/chipped in several areas, replace as needed.

SMOKE DETECTORS

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Inspected

79. (1) As with most homes of this age, smoke detectors are not located in some of the areas currently recommended.

Experts now recommend that smoke detectors be installed in and outside all sleeping areas, on on each level of the

structure, in accordance with industry standards. Interconnected detectors are preferred so that if one sounds, the others

sound. We suggest upgrading as needed prior to occupancy.

80. (2) The detectors are older in this structure. Experts recommend that smoke detectors be replaced every ten years and

that they be installed in and outside all sleeping areas, on on each level of the structure, in accordance with industry

standards. Interconnected detectors are preferred so that if one sounds, the others sound. We suggest upgrading as

needed prior to occupancy

CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS

Inspected

81. Experts advise the installation of carbon monoxide detectors in all structures. These detectors have limited useful

lifespans so we suggest you acquire new detector(s) and install upon occupancy in accordance with manufacturer

specifications.

CABINETS

Inspected

82. One of the drawers is missing and has a false front that is loose. Replace drawer as needed.

RANGES/OVENS/COOKTOPS

Inspected

83. (1) Anti-tip hardware is not installed on this range. This is a safety feature that prevents the oven from falling over if a

child climbs on the open oven door. Although this safety feature may not have been required when the unit was

manufactured or installed, it is needed for safety. We recommend the hardware be installed as a safety upgrade upon

occupancy.

RANGE HOOD/EXHAUST

Inspected

84. The filters for the recirculating fan built into the microwave are missing. The fan also made a loud noise when operated.

These filters should be replaced to prevent dust and grease from getting into the fan motor.

BATHROOM VENTILATION

Inspected

85. Suggest installing a fan that vents to the exterior at the hall bathroom that will supplement the ventilation provided by the

window.

CLOTHES DRYER VENT

Inspected

86. Flexible dryer venting should be replaced with an appropriate duct that meets industry standards and the manufacturer's

installation instructions (typically smooth, metal piping) for fire safety.

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Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

East

816 Pearson St.

Page 12 of 81

1. Introductory Notes

IN NI NP INF

1.0 CLIENT ADVICE

X

1.1 INSPECTION SCOPE

X

1.2 PICTURES

X

1.3 WALK THROUGH INFORMATION

X

1.4 CONCLUDING REMARKS

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

1.0 (1) Please read the inspection report's summary where the Repair/Replace comments list a detailed description of

conditions that need immediate attention, and details on repairs that are likely to be costly. Also, the Consideration

comments, have a list of definitions, helpful tips, recommended upgrades, items that should be monitored, non-critical

conditions requiring repair that arise due to normal wear and tear and the passage of time and conditions that have not

significantly affected usability or function - but may if left unattended.

(2) Any deficiency discussed in this report should be carefully considered by the client and reviewed with the real estate

agent as appropriate. Because a report of a deficiency is often based on the experience of the inspector using visual

clues, it should be understood more extensive problems can be present which can be more costly to resolve than simply

correcting the visible symptoms. Further, it is beyond the scope of this inspection to list every instance of similar

deficiencies. The inspector's notation of any given deficiency should be interpreted such that additional similar defects may

be present or more extensive. Any reported deficiency may require additional investigation to better determine the number

of similar defects and related problems in order to make an informed decision.

- SUGGESTION: Consult with your inspector and/or agent to gain a comfort level about any defect cited in this report. As

needed, consult an appropriate contractor who can provide a detailed list of deficiency locations, specifications and costs

of repairs BEFORE closing escrow.

1.1 (1) The purpose of this inspection was to evaluate the building for function, operation and condition of its systems and

components. The inspection does not include any attempt to find or list cosmetic flaws. You, the client, are the final judge

of aesthetic issues. The presence of furnishings, personal items and decorations in occupied structures limits the scope of

the inspection. For instance, the placement of furniture prevents access to every electrical receptacle. The presence or

extent of building code or zoning violations is not the subject of this inspection nor is it included in this report. No

information is offered on the legal use, or possible uses of the building or property. Information with regard to these issues

may be available from the appropriate building and/or zoning agency. Important information about this property may be a

matter of public record. However, a search of public records is not in the scope of this inspection. We recommend the

buyer review all appropriate public records if this information is desired. We recommend that the buyer conduct a thorough

pre-closing walkthrough inspection before closing escrow.

(2) Because of the age of this building, there will be features and systems that do not conform to present building

standards. While we attempt to point out conditions that might affect health and safety as well as structural issues that may

need correction, we do not warrant that all non-conforming conditions are reported. Imperfections such as sloping floors,

floors and stairs that squeak, along with sticking doors are common in a building of this age. Plumbing and electrical

systems are not expected to meet modern standards. Old drains are more prone to having concealed damage. You can

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reduce your risk of unforeseen drain failures by having a plumber scope the sewer lines with a sewer camera. An older

building such as this will require upgrading and repair now and in the future, as all buildings do.

1.2 Photographs have been provided as examples of some of the issues identified in this report but are not meant to

represent every defect that has been found or every instance of a given defect that has been found. The full report should

be consulted for further information.

1.3 During your final walk-through inspection you will have the opportunity to check the home for a final time. Things can

change after the original inspection and issues may become apparent once belongings have been removed. Obtain from

the owner any available operating manuals for equipment, along with any warranties that are available. You should operate

kitchen equipment, plumbing fixtures, heating and air conditioning systems (warning: a/c units should not be started below

65 degrees F), and any other equipment that is included as part of the purchase. It is also important to check for any signs

of water penetration problems in the house (interior and in the attic). If the owner has agreed to any repair work, the

documentation for this work should be obtained.

--Suggestion: Use the attached Final Walk Through Checklist in conjunction with this report as a guide to your walk

through.

1.4 While we make an effort to identify existing as well as potential problems, it is not possible for anyone to predict future

performance of all the systems and appliances in a building.

- SUGGESTION: Budget annually for unforeseen repairs and the purchase of a comprehensive home warranty policy.

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2. Exterior

The home inspector shall observe: Wall cladding, flashings, and trim; Entryway doors and a representative number of windows; Garage door operators;

Decks, balconies, stoops, steps, areaways, porches and applicable railings; Eaves, soffits, and fascias; and Vegetation, grading, drainage, driveways,

patios, walkways, and retaining walls with respect to their effect on the condition of the building. The home inspector shall: Describe wall cladding materials;

Operate all entryway doors and a representative number of windows; Operate garage doors manually or by using permanently installed controls for any

garage door operator; Report whether or not any garage door operator will automatically reverse or stop when meeting reasonable resistance during

closing; and Probe exterior wood components where deterioration is suspected. The home inspector is not required to observe: Storm windows, storm

doors, screening, shutters, awnings, and similar seasonal accessories; Fences; Presence of safety glazing in doors and windows; Garage door operator

remote control transmitters; Geological conditions; Soil conditions; Recreational facilities (including spas, saunas, steam baths, swimming pools, tennis

courts, playground equipment, and other exercise, entertainment, or athletic facilities); Detached buildings or structures; or Presence or condition of buried

fuel storage tanks. The home inspector is not required to: Move personal items, panels, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow, ice or debris that

obstructs access or visibility.

Styles & Materials

Exterior Wall Cladding:

Aluminum siding

Wood siding

Trim Material:

Wood

Aluminum

Driveway Surface:

Concrete

Walkway surface:

Concrete

Deck/Porch/Patio(s) at Structure:

Patio

Open porch

Patio Surface:

None

Deck/Porch/Patio Cover Type(s):

Full overhang at porch

Faucets/HoseBibs:

Right

Front

Not frost free style

IN NI NP INF

2.0

SIDING/WALL CLADDING

X

2.1

TRIM

X

2.2

DOORS (Exterior)

X

2.3

WINDOWS

X

2.4

GRADING, DRAINAGE AND RETAINING WALLS (With respect to their effect on the condition of the building)

X

2.5

DRIVEWAY/WALKS/PATIOS LEADING TO ENTRANCE(S)

X

2.6

FAUCETS

X

2.7

LAWN SPRINKLER

X

2.8

DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES, PATIO/ COVER AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS

X

2.9

FENCING

X

2.10 OTHER INFORMATION

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

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2.0 (1) The aluminum siding is dented in areas. This is typically a cosmetic defect.

2.0 Picture 1

(2) Some block areas need tuckpointing to help shed water. Tuckpointing is the process of replacing loose/missing

mortar on the brick.

2.0 Picture 2

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(3) Gaps/holes in the soffits/overhang at the right side of the house, above the front porch, and rear left of the house

should be sealed against the weather to prevent water intrusion and damage.

2.0 Picture 3

2.0 Picture 4

2.0 Picture 5

2.0 Picture 6

2.0 Picture 7

(4) Missing/loose corner cap at the front dormer on the aluminum siding that needs to be replaced to prevent water

intrusion and damage.

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2.1 Decayed trim should be fully evaluated and repaired and replaced as needed and kept well finished against the

weather.

The wood exterior trim needs painting soon as the finish is worn and/or peeling. Paint always lasts longer when preceded

by proper preparation. Make sure the wood is completely dry before painting; remove any loose paint and prime bare

wood areas before applying a finish coat. Paint maintenance is especially important to prevent decay in the ""paint grade

spruce"" wood trim now in common use. When areas are painted expect the painters to possibly find some soft wood from

water damage that might need replacement. Budget for isolated wood replacements as part of the painting process.

2.1 Picture 1

2.1 Picture 2

2.1 Picture 3

2.1 Picture 4

2.1 Picture 5

2.1 Picture 6

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2.1 Picture 7

2.1 Picture 8

2.2 (1) Damaged mesh on the doorwall screen that needs repair or replacement to keep insects out.

2.2 Picture 1

2.2 Picture 2

2.2 Picture 3

(2) Weatherstripping is damaged or missing and is needed at the main entry and rear entry to home to help prevent

airflow and reduce energy costs.

(3) The door knob is very loose at the front entry door and should be tightened/secured as needed.

2.2 Picture 4

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2.4 We suggest regrading as needed to assure all water drains away from the foundation (left, rear, and right side of

the house) without covering siding. Controlling water around the foundation is the single biggest factor in reducing the

chances for water infiltration into the structure. Nearly every structure we inspect has room for improvement.

2.4 Picture 1

2.4 Picture 2

2.4 Picture 3

2.4 Picture 4

2.5 Common cracking and minor settlement noted at driveway. Sealing the cracks can help reduce the chances of

settlement from water intrusion. If the settlement threatens to become a trip hazard it should be corrected.

2.5 Picture 1

2.5 Picture 2

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2.6 Off/inoperable at the front and right side of the house at time of inspection. We suggest verifying operation.

2.6 Picture 1

2.6 Picture 2

2.8 (1) Some cracking, rotting, and warping of the front deck boards. Any loose or uneven boards should be repaired

or replaced to prevent a trip and fall.

The deck finish is worn and refinishing is needed to protect against deterioration.

2.8 Picture 1

2.8 Picture 2

2.8 Picture 3

2.8 Picture 4

(2) The wall at the front porch is too low for safety. Railings should be at least 36 inches above the level of the walking

surface to minimize the chance of someone falling over them. Have a qualified carpenter provide repair specifications and

costs, and perform the work.

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(3) The front porch is slightly slanted, which is typical to see in older houses with the old front porches. We could not

see any of the structure underneath this area.

2.8 Picture 5

2.9 The wood fencing is weathered/worn and refinishing is needed to protect the wood against deterioration.

2.9 Picture 1

2.10 (1) We suggest caulking/sealing the exterior as needed to help shed water and to maximize energy efficiency.

Pay attention to all openings and gaps as well as old caulk that has deteriorated.

2.10 Picture 1

(2) Vegetation on the property should be maintained to prevent overgrowth and encroachment onto and possible

damage to the structure.

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3. Garage

Styles & Materials

Type of garage:

Detached Garage

IN NI NP INF

3.0 GARAGE CEILING

X

3.1 GARAGE WALLS

X

3.2 GARAGE FLOOR

X

3.3 GARAGE DOOR(S)

X

3.4 GARAGE DOOR OPENER(S)

X

3.5 OCCUPANT DOOR FROM GARAGE TO INSIDE HOME

X

3.6 PEDESTRIAN DOOR INTO THE GARAGE

X

3.7 GARAGE WINDOW(S)

X

3.8 OTHER INFORMATION

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

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3.8 The garage is very worn down and should be replaced. The seller indicated the garage is not safe to walk in. The

walls/siding, roofing, garage doors should all be replaced.

3.8 Picture 1

3.8 Picture 2

3.8 Picture 3

3.8 Picture 4

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816 Pearson St.

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4. Roofing

The home inspector shall observe: Roof covering; Roof drainage systems; Flashings; Skylights, chimneys, and roof penetrations; and Signs of' leaks or

abnormal condensation on building components. The home inspector shall: Describe the type of roof covering materials; and Report the methods used to

observe the roofing. The home inspector is not required to: Walk on the roofing; or Observe attached accessories including but not limited to solar systems,

antennae, and lightning arrestors.

Styles & Materials

Viewed roof covering from:

Ground

Ladder

Walked roof

Roof - Type:

Gable

Roof slope:

Combination of steep and low slope roofs present

Roof Covering - Pitched:

Architectural

Valley Style:

Closed cut

Sky Light(s):

None

Estimated roof covering age:

Approximately 10 to 15 years

Gutter/Roof Drainage:

Metal gutters and downspouts

IN NI NP INF

4.0 ROOF PHOTO(S)

X

4.1 CLIENT INFORMATION

X

4.2 ROOF COVERINGS

X

4.3 FLASHINGS

X

4.4 VALLEYS

X

4.5 ROOF DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

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4.0 General roof photos.

4.0 Picture 1

4.0 Picture 2

4.0 Picture 3

4.0 Picture 4

4.0 Picture 5

4.1 All roof systems require annual (or even more frequent) maintenance. Failure to perform routine roof maintenance will

usually result in leaks and accelerated deterioration of the roof covering and flashings. Any estimate of remaining life

expectancy must be based on the assumption that the roof will be conscientiously maintained. Our inspection of the roof

surface, attic and interior spaces should not be interpreted as a certification that this roof is, or will be free of leaks. Key

components that are vital in making a roof system work are concealed from view and cannot be verified without destructive

testing, which is beyond the scope of this inspection.

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4.2 (1) Mineral loss is generally minimal but moderate in some areas and the shingles are generally flexible. The

shingles generally lay flat and where checked were adhered well. This type of shingle will typically last 200-25 years before

needing to be replaced, and we estimate this roof to be approximately 10-15 years old.

4.2 Picture 1

(2) There is moss or other plant growth on the shingles that should be treated and removed. The moss usually forms

on north facing sections and/or areas that are shaded by trees. If not treated and removed this could shorten the life

expectancy of the shingles

4.2 Picture 2

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(3) The garage roof covering is beyond the end of its useful life and should be replaced at this time. Cost estimates

should be obtained.

4.2 Picture 3

(4) The tree limbs that are in contact with roof or hanging near roof should be trimmed to prevent damage to the

shingles.

4.2 Picture 4

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4.3 (1) We advise sealing all exposed fasteners to reduce the chances for moisture penetration. As part of routine

maintenance, caulking around the fasteners should be periodically checked and resealed as needed.

(2) In our examination of the roof, we noted one or more areas where flashing was not visible. The function of flashing

is to seal the joints that occur between roofing materials, roof penetrations, walls or other structural features. Because

flashing is installed under roofing and siding materials, it is common for it to be not visible. We cannot verify its presence.

Any joint that has missing, damaged or improperly installed flashing can be a leak source.

- SUGGESTION: If the home has no history of leaks in this area, the client should simply monitor the location(s) for any

sign of leakage. Have a qualified roofing contractor repair any flashing, visible or not, if leaks are present or develop in the

area(s).

(3) Saddle/cricket upgrade advised at chimney to help shed water. Saddles and crickets are flashed roofing features

that help divert water around an object that blocks or slows the flow of water.

4.3 Picture 1

4.4 There are leaves and debris from trees in the valleys that should be periodically cleaned to prevent damage to the

shingles. This can also lead to water intrusion and ice damming.

4.4 Picture 1

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4.5 (1) We suggest extending all downspout drainage well away from the foundation to reduce the chances of water

intrusion into the structure.

4.5 Picture 1

4.5 Picture 2

4.5 Picture 3

4.5 Picture 4

4.5 Picture 5

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(2) Downspout(s) drain onto the roof surface. Although a common practice, we suggest alternate drainage (directly to

gutters or grade) to reduce the chances of roof leaks and accelerated roof wear.

4.5 Picture 6

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(3) Sections of the gutters were filled with water at the time of this inspection, indicating improper drainage, which

could promote water penetration of the building and damage to exterior and interior building elements and finishes.

-SUGGESTION: All gutters should be cleaned. The condition of the gutters can be evaluated after the debris has been

removed.

4.5 Picture 7

4.5 Picture 8

4.5 Picture 9

4.5 Picture 10

(4) Missing downspout section at front right of house should be installed to help provide proper drainage and avoid

damage.

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Missing end cap on front left corner of the garage should be replaced to help provide proper drainage and avoid damage.

4.5 Picture 11

4.5 Picture 12

(5) The gutter appears to leak at the seam on the front right corner of the covered porch. This can lead to deterioration

of the fascia trim and I recommend cleaning and apply gutter sealant or epoxy.

4.5 Picture 13

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East

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5. Attic

The home inspector shall observe: Insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished spaces; Ventilation of attics and foundation areas; Kitchen, bathroom, and

laundry venting systems; and the operation of any readily accessible attic ventilation fan, and, when temperature permits, the operation of any readily

accessible thermostatic control. The home inspector shall describe: Insulation in unfinished spaces; and Absence of insulation in unfinished space at

conditioned surfaces. The home inspector shall: Move insulation where readily visible evidence indicates the need to do so; and Move insulation where

chimneys penetrate roofs, where plumbing drain/waste pipes penetrate floors, adjacent to earth filled stoops or porches, and at exterior doors. The home

inspector is not required to report on: Concealed insulation and vapor retarders; or Venting equipment that is integral with household appliances.

Styles & Materials

Attic Access:

Hatch

Door

Two entry points

Attic Insulation:

Batt

Fiberglass

Approximate

R-19

Attic Ventilation:

Gable vents

Ridge vents

Attic Moisture:

No signs of current water entry

Various stains noted - may be from prior to reroofing

Attic Vapor Retarder:

Present as insulation backing

Roof Framing:

Conventional rafters

Roof Decking/Sheathing:

Wood plank

OSB over wood planks

Method used to observe attic:

Entered and crawled

Access limited to nature of construction

Access limited

IN NI NP INF

5.0

ATTIC PHOTO(S)

X

5.1

CLIENT INFORMATION

X

5.2

LIMITATIONS OF ATTIC ACCESS

X

5.3

GENERAL ATTIC CONDITIONS

X

5.4

ATTIC INSULATION

X

5.5

ATTIC VENTILATION

X

5.6

ATTIC MOISTURE CONDITIONS

X

5.7

EXHAUST FANS

X

5.8

VENTILATION FANS AND THERMOSTATIC CONTROLS (ATTIC)

X

5.9

ROOF FRAMING

X

5.10 ROOF SHEATHING

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

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816 Pearson St.

Page 34 of 81

5.0 General attic photos.

5.0 Picture 1

5.0 Picture 2

5.0 Picture 3

5.0 Picture 4

5.0 Picture 5

5.1 When inspections are conducted shortly after or during periods of prolonged rain, active roof leaks can often be

identified by dampness at the interior of the structure. See the General Information Section of this report for weather

conditions at the time of this inspection. Most inspections, however, are not conducted under wet weather conditions and

in such cases we cannot determine whether a leak is active or not. Further, some leaks occur only under severe or

unusual wind driven conditions. Even during prolonged rain an inspection may not reveal the exact circumstances under

which water entry occurs.

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5.2 Limited access due to low headroom and/or type of construction thus some areas were not visible.

5.3 (1) Rodent droppings noted in the attic. We suggest obtaining the history of any pest activity and having evaluated

and treated as needed by a qualified pest control operator.

5.3 Picture 1

5.3 Picture 2

(2) We suggest installing insulation on the back side of the attic access hatch/door to improve energy efficiency and

reduce drafts.

5.3 Picture 3

5.4 We suggest having the insulation upgraded to reduce your fuel bills. A qualified insulation contractor can help you

determine the proper upgrade and determine payback periods for the various options available.

5.4 Picture 1

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5.6 Stains are visible; these may be left over from prior to reroofing. These areas were tested with the moisture meter and

indicates the areas are dry.

5.6 Picture 1

5.6 Picture 2

5.10 Newer roof sheathing is visible indicating it was replaced with the last reroofing.

The insulation and ventilation of the home was inspected and reported on with the above information. While the inspector makes every effort to find all

areas of concern, some areas can go unnoticed. Venting of exhaust fans or clothes dryer cannot be fully inspected and bends or obstructions can occur

without being accessible or visible (behind wall and ceiling coverings). Only insulation that is visible was inspected. Please be aware that the inspector has

your best interest in mind. Any repair items mentioned in this report should be considered before purchase. It is recommended that qualified contractors be

used in your further inspection or repair issues as it relates to the comments in this inspection report.

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6. Chimneys & Fireplaces

Styles & Materials

CHIMNEY TYPE(S):

Masonry furnace/water heater/fireplace chimney

FIREPLACE TYPE(S):

Masonry wood burner

NUMBER OF FIREPLACE(S):

One

FLUE/CHIMNEY INSPECTION LIMITATIONS:

Height of chimney(s)

Caps on chimneys/flues

Steep pitch/height of roof

IN NI NP INF

6.0 CLIENT INFORMATION

X

6.1 CHIMNEY CONDITION

X

6.2 FIREPLACE CONDITION

X

6.3 GAS LOGS

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

6.0 Chimneys are a common source of water infiltration, both at the roof and inside the structure. Maintaining the flashing

and a proper weather cap will reduce the chances of a problem. Portions of the flashing and interior of the chimney are not

visible during our inspection. The NFPA recommends having what is called a Level 2 inspection by a qualified chimney

sweep, to include a camera scan of the interior of the chimney. A level 2 inspection can identify problems not noted in our

report. We agree with their recommendation. You can also find a list of certified sweeps at www.csia.org.

6.0 Picture 1

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6.2 (1) The hearth for the fireplace at the family room is supported by combustible framing. The support for natural

fireplace hearth extensions should be at least two inches thick and should be supported by noncombustible materials to

reduce the risk of fire.

6.2 Picture 1

(2) Creosote and/or soot build-up noted in the chimney. Creosote is a naturally produced flammable by product of

combustion. Its presence is a limiting factor on a visual review. We suggest having cleaned and evaluated (request an

NFPA Level II inspection) by a qualified fireplace and chimney specialist.

6.2 Picture 2

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East

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7. Structure

Styles & Materials

Foundation type and material:

Masonry block

Basement:

Unfinished

Access to foundation walls:

The walls are partially concealed by belongings

Exterior Wall Structure:

Framing not visible due to finish

Ceiling Structure:

Not visible

Floor Structure:

Wood joists

Wood plank

2 X 8

Columns or Piers:

Steel columns

Beams/Girders:

Metal

Visible Wall Insulation:

None

IN NI NP INF

7.0 BASEMENT FOUNDATION MOISTURE CONDITIONS

X

7.1 FOUNDATION WALLS

X

7.2 FOUNDATION INSULATION

X

7.3 Subflooring Conditions (as visible from the basement or crawl space)

X

7.4 Floor Joist Conditions

X

7.5 Structural beam Conditions

X

7.6 Structural Post and Column Conditions

X

7.7 Limitations to Foundation/Floor Framing Inspection

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

7.0 (1) White efflorescence (powder substance) on block wall indicates moisture is in contact with the masonry (signs

of active water intrusion/seepage at the front right corner and rear left corner of the house). This does not

necessarily indicate that intrusion will occur. I recommend checking the gutters and the downspout drain lines for proper

operation. Also, a water proofing paint could be applied to the interior side of the block if necessary. Efflorescence is found

on many homes without water intrusion occurring inside the home. But, it should alert you to the possibility that future

steps may be needed.

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NOTE: See roof drainage notes and grading notes in the exterior for more information.

7.0 Picture 1

7.0 Picture 2

7.0 Picture 3

7.0 Picture 4

7.0 Picture 5

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(2) Some block areas need tuckpointing to help shed water at the front right corner of the house. Tuckpointing is the

process of replacing loose/missing mortar on the block.

7.0 Picture 6

7.0 Picture 7

7.0 Picture 8

(3) The sellers have reportedly disclosed past water infiltration. We advise obtaining the full history of any water

problems and any corrective actions taken, as well as any warranty paperwork, if applicable.

7.0 Picture 9

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7.2 There are voids in the insulation at the rim joists (area of framing that sits on top of the foundation walls). Since this

area is above ground, we suggest insulating to improve energy efficiency

7.2 Picture 1

7.3 There are water stains on the subfloor in the area under the bathrooms, kitchen, and family room area. The area

was dry at the time of this inspection, and no damage was apparent. - SUGGESTION: We recommend periodic inspection

of this area to check for signs of active leakage.

7.3 Picture 1

7.3 Picture 2

7.3 Picture 3

7.6 There is/are a steel adjustable floor support(s) (often referred to as lally or Floor jacks) in the basement. These

posts are often installed to stiffen the floor system or to help prevent sagging of the floor. In some jurisdictions they are not

an approved support device. SUGGESTION: Consult with the local building authorities about the post and have a qualified

contractor make any required repairs.

7.6 Picture 1

7.6 Picture 2

7.6 Picture 3

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7.7 Foundation review was limited by finish and or belongings, thus some areas were not visible.

7.7 Picture 1

7.7 Picture 2

7.7 Picture 3

7.7 Picture 4

7.7 Picture 5

7.7 Picture 6

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8. Plumbing

Styles & Materials

Water Source:

Public

Water Filters:

None

Main water Shutoff Location:

Basement

Plumbing Water Supply (into

structure):

Galvanized (old)

Plumbing Water Distribution (inside

structure):

Galvanized

Copper

Water Heater Power Source:

Gas (quick recovery)

Water Heater Manufacturer(s):

RHEEM

Water Heater Capacity:

40 Gallon

Water Heater Location:

Basement

Water Heater Age:

1 year

Plumbing Waste:

PVC

Cast iron

Sewer Cleanout Location:

Basement

Fuel Shutoff location:

Exterior gas meter

Fuel Type:

Natural Gas

Plumbing Access:

Generally accessible where located in the

basement

IN NI NP INF

8.0

CLIENT INFORMATION

X

8.1

WATER HEATER

X

8.2

WATER HEATER VENTS/FLUES/VENT CONNECTORS

X

8.3

MAIN WATER SHUT-OFF DEVICE

X

8.4

WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES

X

8.5

PLUMBING DRAIN, WASTE AND VENT SYSTEMS

X

8.6

SUMP PUMP

X

8.7

SEWAGE EJECTOR

X

8.8

FUEL PIPES AND STORAGE SYSTEMS

X

8.9

FIRE SPRINKLERS

X

8.10 OTHER INFORMATION

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

8.0 Valves may leak when operated after a period of inactivity. For this reason, we did not test service valves during the

inspection. Expect to find many of these difficult to operate or stuck in position.

During the inspection, we only operate the valves or faucets that are normally operated by the occupants in their daily use

of the plumbing system. Be aware that we will not operate:

1.

The main water supply shutoff (although we will report on its existence and location when accessible)

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2.

The temperature & pressure relief valve on the water heater (although we will note its existence and check its

installation)

3.

The water heater tank supply or drain valves

4.

Any stop valves supplying water to plumbing fixtures

5.

The laundry supply shutoff valves.

Any valve that is not operated on a daily basis may fail; that is, start leaking or dripping, when tested. If you want to know if

seldom-used valves and faucets are functional, we encourage you to operate them in the presence of the seller, before

escrow closing. If the seller is not available for this exercise, we recommend that you have a plumber present so that he

can make any repairs or replacements.

Water system pressure tests are not within the scope of this inspection. Likewise, we cannot determine the function of

underground drains. You can reduce your risk by having a plumber snake the drains and perform a camera scan to help

determine condition of these concealed areas.

8.1 (1) Water heater - 1 year old.

8.1 Picture 1

8.1 Picture 2

(2) The piping for pressure relief valve is missing. Correction advised. The relief valve is an important safety

component and it should discharge close to the floor, with the right size piping, in a conspicuous location. The end should

not be threaded so it cannot be capped, which could cause an explosion. This is an easy repair.

8.1 Picture 3

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8.3 Location of main water shut offs,

8.3 Picture 1

8.4 (1) Galvanized water lines rust from the inside out and become restricted over time. This plumbing is beyond its

expected lifespan. Maintenance and eventual pipe replacement (which may require opening walls and ceilings) should be

anticipated with galvanized piping systems.

8.4 Picture 1

8.4 Picture 2

(2) Shower diverter does not send adequate flow to the shower head at the bathroom; the diverter needs repair or

replacement.

8.4 Picture 3

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8.5 (1) The sewer line was being inspected by JPD inspections.

8.5 Picture 1

8.5 Picture 2

(2) Rust and corrosion was noted at various areas. The plumbing should be cleaned and repaired as needed and on-

going maintenance anticipated.

8.5 Picture 3

8.5 Picture 4

8.5 Picture 5

(3) Drum traps were noted in the home. Common in older homes, these are outdated traps that are prone to clogging.

As long as they are functional, there is no reason to replace them. We suggest you replace drum traps at such time as

they require maintenance.

8.5 Picture 6

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(4) The plumbing vent pipe is open to the attic space (that is no longer used), but should still be closed off to prevent

any water intrusion that could occur.

8.5 Picture 7

(5) Short plumbing vents noted exiting the roof. Short vents tend to be prone to snow/frost closure. If drains should

have problems such as gurgling or sluggish drainage after a snowfall or severe cold they should be properly extended.

8.5 Picture 8

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9. Electrical

Styles & Materials

Electrical Service Conductors:

Overhead service

Service Ampacity:

100 AMP

Circuit Protection Type:

Circuit breakers

120 Volt Branch Circuit wiring:

Copper

Wiring Type(s):

Romex

Asphaltic Cloth Sheathed Cable

Main Disconnect Location:

Inside of the main distribution panel(s)

Main Panel Location:

Basement

Electric Panel Manufacturer:

SIEMENS

Groud Fault Circuit Interupters (GFCIs) Locations:

None: See the Electrical Addendum

IN NI NP INF

9.0 CLIENT INFORMATION

X

9.1 SERVICE ENTRANCE CONDUCTORS/ELECTRIC METER/EXTERIOR DISCONNECT

X

9.2 EXTERIOR, GARAGE & ATTIC ELECTRIC

X

9.3 INTERIOR LIVING SPACE ELECTRIC

X

9.4 BATHROOM ELECTRIC

X

9.5 KITCHEN ELECTRIC

X

9.6 BONDING/GROUNDING CONSIDERATIONS

X

9.7 GENERAL PANEL ENCLOSURE COMMENTS

X

9.8 MAIN PANEL BRANCH CIRCUIT CONDUCTORS & OVERCURRENT DEVICES

X

9.9 OTHER INFORMATION

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

9.0 Our inspectors test a random sample of receptacles, switches and fixtures. We typically test not less than one

receptacle outlet per room and all outlets within 6 feet of a water source. Each and every wiring device will not be

evaluated. Wiring devices blocked by furniture or personal goods will not be tested.

Testing the function of the main disconnect and individual breakers is not in the scope of this inspection.

Electrical defects are considered to be safety concerns and all such defects should be corrected by a qualified electrician.

Evaluation of any low voltage wiring systems, including but not necessarily limited to telephone, security systems, data

transfer lines, TV antenna and cables, alarm, intercom, and stereo systems is beyond the scope of this inspection. Have

the seller demonstrate or a qualified technician evaluate the low voltage wiring as desired.

Please see the Electrical Addendum for additional important information and definitions of terms used in the report.

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9.2 Missing light fixture above the rear entry door should be installed to prevent accidental contact with electrical wires.

9.2 Picture 1

9.3 (1) Three-prong ungrounded receptacle outlet(s) noted at most outlets in the home should be corrected for safety.

9.3 Picture 1

(2) Some lights are inoperable. Often, this is due to burned out bulbs. We suggest you verify function prior to close.

9.3 Picture 2

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9.4 We suggest having GFCI protection provided at bathroom outlet(s). Although likely not required when built, this is

an important safety upgrade. GFCI receptacle outlets are relatively inexpensive.

9.4 Picture 1

9.5 (1) We suggest having GFCI protection provided at all kitchen outlets. Although likely not required when built, this

is an important safety upgrade. GFCI receptacle outlets are relatively inexpensive.

9.5 Picture 1

9.5 Picture 2

(2) The oven and microwave are both plugged into an outlet that is hanging from its wires. Each of these should have

their own outlet, secured inside a junction box with a coverplate, each with a dedicated circuit for safety purposes.

9.5 Picture 3

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9.7 The cover was removed on the panel(s) to observe the wiring and connections.

9.7 Picture 1

9.9 Our inspectors randomly test receptacles, switches and fixtures. We typically test not less than one outlet per room

and all outlets within six feet of a water source. Each and every wiring device will not be evaluated. Wiring devices blocked

by furniture or personal goods will not be tested.

Because of the presence of personal belongings, access was restricted and some of the receptacles were not inspected.

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10. Heating and Cooling

Styles & Materials

Number of Heat Systems (excluding

wood):

One

Heat Type:

Forced Air

Energy Source:

Gas

Heat System Location:

Basement

Heat System Brand:

KENMORE

Blower Compartment:

Blower door interlock present and

operable

Heat Source in Each Bedroom/Living

Room:

Yes

Furnace/Boiler/Air Handler Age:

18 years

Filter Type:

Disposable - 30 day

20 x 25 x 1

Humidifer Style:

None

Number of A/C Units:

One

Cooling Equipment Type:

Split system with outside compressor(s)

Compressor/Heat Pump Location:

Rear

Compressor Age:

24 years old

Compressor Brand:

Bryant

Thermostat Location:

Programmable

Hall

A/C Has Interuptible Service?:

No-see your electric utility for adding this cost saving

plan

Cooling Equipment Total Tonnage:

Two and One Half Tons

IN NI NP INF

10.0

CLIENT INFORMATION

X

10.1

FORCED AIR FURNACE

X

10.2

COMBUSTION CHAMBER

X

10.3

BLOWER COMPARTMENT

X

10.4

FILTERS & DUCTWORK

X

10.5

VENTS/FLUES/VENT CONNECTORS

X

10.6

AIRCONDITIONER (A/C) OPERATION

X

10.7

OUTSIDE A/C COMPRESSOR NOTES

X

10.8

THERMOSTATS & DISCONNECTS

X

10.9

HUMIDIFER

X

10.10 OTHER INFORMATION

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

10.0 Temperature permitting, inspection and evaluation of the condition of the cooling system was limited to visible

components and their basic functions. We did not test amperage draw or refrigerant pressures.

A full technical evaluation of the condition of heating and cooling equipment requires extensive invasive testing that is

beyond the scope of this inspection. Specialty systems, such as boilers and geothermal units should be separately

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evaluated by a qualified specialist. We suggest you inquire of the seller if any areas do not adequately heat or cool and

obtain the paperwork for any recent repairs/evaluations.

10.1 (1) Furnace.

The furnace is older (18 years old) but did work at time of inspection. I am unable to determine life remaining. Suggest that

you budget for replacement.

10.1 Picture 1

(2) A CO test was performed using a Bacharach Monoxer Plus monitor in the plenum/ductwork directly above the furnace.

The levels were found to be 0 PPM so there is no concern.

10.1 Picture 2

10.1 Picture 3

10.4 (1) Recommend upgrading the current 30 day filter to a 90 day filter. This will fit into the same slot as the present

filter but is more efficient.

10.4 Picture 1

10.4 Picture 2

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(2) Debris noted in vents; we suggest having the ductwork cleaned and inspected.

10.6 The AC compressor did not operate/run when tested. We tried 3 different times with the thermostat and switching

the breaker on and off and the compressor was only humming and never began to run. The unit is 24 years and and it may

be more cost effective to have it replaced rather than trying to repair it.

10.6 Picture 1

10.6 Picture 2

10.6 Picture 3

10.7 (1) The insulation on the suction line is deteriorated at the outside unit. Missing insulation on a suction line can

cause energy loss and condensation. New insulation should be installed. This is an easy repair.

10.7 Picture 1

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(2) AC wall units were not tested.

10.7 Picture 2

10.8 Thermostat.

10.8 Picture 1

10.10 The upper floor of bungalows often do not heat or cool well. Home buyers often find it necessary to install new

ductwork or supplemental heating/cooling.

10.10 Picture 1

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11. Interiors

Styles & Materials

Interior Access:

Standard amount of belongings in home

Ceiling Materials:

Drywall

Wall Material:

Drywall

Floor Covering(s):

Carpet

Hardwood T&G

Self-adhesive vinyl tiles

Vinyl Composite Tile (VCT)

Window Material:

Wood

Aluminum

Window Types/Design:

Glass Block

Single pane with built-in storms

Framing:

Except as noted the wall & ceiling framing are concealed by finish

Interior Door Type:

Raised panel

Wood

Wood and glass

IN NI NP INF

11.0 GENERAL COMMENTS ABOUT THE INTERIOR

X

11.1 WINDOWS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER)

X

11.2 DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER)

X

11.3 CEILINGS

X

11.4 WALLS

X

11.5 FLOORS

X

11.6 STEPS, STAIRWAYS, BALCONIES AND RAILINGS

X

11.7 SMOKE DETECTORS

X

11.8 CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

11.0 Cosmetic flaws are present in all buildings. Except as noted as a courtesy, we made no attempt to report on cosmetic

issues such as nail pops, minor cracks, carpet tears, and other flooring flaws etc.

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11.1 There are cracked glass in some windows throughout home.

Sampled windows operated stiffly and some were stuck or painted shut. We suggest that you loosen and clean as

necessary for easier operation. All windows should be cycled at least once a year as a good maintenance practice. We

recommend that there is at least one easily operable window and storm unit in each room for fire egress.

There are windows that have peeling paint. Refinishing is now needed to protect the wood from deterioration.

The windows are old and will likely require on-going maintenance.

11.1 Picture 1

11.1 Picture 2

11.1 Picture 3

11.1 Picture 4

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11.1 Picture 5

11.1 Picture 6

11.1 Picture 7

11.1 Picture 8

11.2 (1) The door(s) at hit the wall when opened due to missing and/or damaged door stop(s). The stop(s) need repair

or new ones installed to protect the adjacent wall from damage.

11.2 Picture 1

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(2) Loose knob/handle at some of the doors. The handles need tightening to restore proper operation.

11.2 Picture 2

(3) The door at the walk-in closet at the second floor does not latch. This usually is a simple adjustment of the

strikeplate and/or hinge that restores proper operation.

11.2 Picture 3

11.3 (1) Patching noted at the second floor walk-in closet. We suggest obtaining the maintenance history.

11.3 Picture 1

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(2) Peeling paint noted on the ceilings in the second floor bedroom and the front first floor bedroom, we tested these

areas with a moisture meter and they were both dry at the time of the inspection.

11.3 Picture 2

11.3 Picture 3

11.3 Picture 4

11.4 Peeling paint was noted under the window with the AC unit in the front first floor bedroom. We tested this area

with a moisture meter and it was damp at the time of the inspection. This is likely due to the old windows and condensation

form the AC unit. We suggest removing the plaster/drywall in this area to ensure it is fully dried out before re-finishing to

prevent mold/mildew growth.

11.4 Picture 1

11.4 Picture 2

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11.5 (1) I recommend silicone caulk along floor and tub at bathroom.

11.5 Picture 1

(2) The floor squeaks noticeable in this house indicate loose subfloor nails rather than a structural problem. Correction

is not necessary, but, if desired, the definitive repair is to secure the subfloor with zinc coated screws when floor coverings

are replaced. Note that wood wedges between the sub-floor and the floor joists sometimes increase the problem.

(3) Carpets are dirty and stained in some areas and it is unknown whether the stains can be removed. Have a

professional carpet cleaning company evaluate or consider replacement.

11.5 Picture 2

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(4) The vinyl tiles in the kitchen and bathroom are cracked/chipped in several areas, replace as needed.

11.5 Picture 3

11.5 Picture 4

11.5 Picture 5

11.5 Picture 6

11.6 (1) Loose railing(s) at the upstairs should be properly secured to help prevent slip and fall

11.6 Picture 1

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(2) Open riser style steps at stairs to basement is a fall hazard for young children. Steps should be taken to prevent fall

through.

The basement stair stringers (sides of steps) are separating from the treads. Suggest having secured or re-supported as

needed for proper support.

The one side of the stairs to the basement/lower level is open and should have a railing or a wall to prevent a trip and/or

fall type accident.

11.6 Picture 2

11.6 Picture 3

11.6 Picture 4

11.7 (1) As with most homes of this age, smoke detectors are not located in some of the areas currently

recommended. Experts now recommend that smoke detectors be installed in and outside all sleeping areas, on on each

level of the structure, in accordance with industry standards. Interconnected detectors are preferred so that if one sounds,

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the others sound. We suggest upgrading as needed prior to occupancy.

(2) The detectors are older in this structure. Experts recommend that smoke detectors be replaced every ten years and

that they be installed in and outside all sleeping areas, on on each level of the structure, in accordance with industry

standards. Interconnected detectors are preferred so that if one sounds, the others sound. We suggest upgrading as

needed prior to occupancy

11.7 Picture 1

11.8 Experts advise the installation of carbon monoxide detectors in all structures. These detectors have limited useful

lifespans so we suggest you acquire new detector(s) and install upon occupancy in accordance with manufacturer

specifications.

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12. Kitchen

Styles & Materials

Visible Cooking Fuel Source(s):

Natural Gas

Built in Dishwasher:

NONE

Exhaust/Range hood:

Exhuast fan built into microwave

RE-CIRCULATE

Disposer Brand:

NONE

Range/Oven Combo Unit:

FRIGIDAIRE

Built in Microwave:

LG

Refrigerator:

FRIGIDAIRE

Estimated Appliance Age:

Approximately 18 years old

Cabinetry:

Wood

Sink(s):

1 BOWL

STAINLESS STEEL

Countertop:

LAMINATE

IN NI NP INF

12.0 CLIENT INFORMATION

X

12.1 SINK(S)

X

12.2 CABINETS

X

12.3 COUNTERTOP

X

12.4 DISHWASHER

X

12.5 RANGES/OVENS/COOKTOPS

X

12.6 RANGE HOOD/EXHAUST

X

12.7 WASTE DISPOSER

X

12.8 BUILT IN MICROWAVE

X

12.9 REFRIGERATOR

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

12.0 Inspecting appliances is beyond the scope of the ASHI Standards of Practice. As a courtesy to the client, we checked

basic function of the listed appliances only.

Note that some realtors as well as local utility providers and private contractors offer annual service contracts covering gas

or electric appliances.

- SUGGESTION: Consult with your agent and/or the utility provider regarding cost, scope of coverage and the availability

of such programs.

All appliances should be checked during your final walk through.

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12.2 One of the drawers is missing and has a false front that is loose. Replace drawer as needed.

12.2 Picture 1

12.5 (1) Anti-tip hardware is not installed on this range. This is a safety feature that prevents the oven from falling over

if a child climbs on the open oven door. Although this safety feature may not have been required when the unit was

manufactured or installed, it is needed for safety. We recommend the hardware be installed as a safety upgrade upon

occupancy.

(2) Confirming the accuracy and function of clocks, timers, temperature controls and the self-cleaning function of ovens is

beyond the scope of this inspection.

12.6 The filters for the recirculating fan built into the microwave are missing. The fan also made a loud noise when

operated. These filters should be replaced to prevent dust and grease from getting into the fan motor.

12.6 Picture 1

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12.8 The microwave is close to the range top. We suggest checking the manufacturer's installation instructions to see

if it is allowed to be this close. If not, it should be remounted appropriately to prevent overheating and damage.

12.8 Picture 1

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13. Bathrooms

Styles & Materials

Number of Bathrooms:

One

Shower Wall Material:

Plastic Panels

Countertop Material:

Porcelain - part of sink

Bathroom Ventilation:

Window

Plumbing Access:

Plumbing access panels(s) provided

Bathroom Floor Covering (See Interior Comments):

Vinyl

Bathtub Stopper:

Stopper(s) Present

IN NI NP INF

13.0 WASH BASIN/SINKS

X

13.1 SHOWER WALLS

X

13.2 BATHTUB(S)

X

13.3 BATHROOM VENTILATION

X

13.4 TOILETS

X

13.5 CABINETS/COUNTERTOPS

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

13.3 Suggest installing a fan that vents to the exterior at the hall bathroom that will supplement the ventilation provided

by the window.

13.3 Picture 1

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13.4 The toilet bowl in the bathroom is loose at the floor anchor bolts. The wax ring inside the unit must have a snug,

secure fit in order to prevent leaks and damage. Resealing, leveling and re-securing this unit is advised, prior to use.The

flooring in this area should be checked for damage.

13.4 Picture 1

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14. Laundry

Styles & Materials

Laundry Location:

Basement

Clothes Washer:

Samsung

Clothes Dryer:

General Electric

Laundry Tub:

Plastic

Dryer Power Source:

Gas

IN NI NP INF

14.0 CLOTHES WASHER HOOK UP

X

14.1 LAUNDRY TUB

X

14.2 CLOTHES DRYER VENT

X

14.3 CLOTHES DRYER CONNECTION

X

14.4 CLOTHES WASHER

X

14.5 CLOTHES DRYER

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

14.2 Flexible dryer venting should be replaced with an appropriate duct that meets industry standards and the

manufacturer's installation instructions (typically smooth, metal piping) for fire safety.

14.2 Picture 1

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15. Additional Information

IN NI NP INF

15.0 Water Intrusion Addendum

X

15.1 Electrical Addendum

X

15.2 FInal Walkthrough Checklist

X

IN NI NP INF

IN=Inspected, NI=Not Inspected, NP=Not Present, INF=Informational

Comments:

15.0

Water Intrusion and Mold Addendum

Where does the water go? Water is probably the number one nemesis of the building owner. Basement, wall and roof

leaks, plumbing leaks and condensation are a constant possibility. When water is allowed to intrude or condense within the

structure, the possibility of hidden damage, decay and/or mold exists.

In our report we tell you about conditions we see that can lead to water intrusion. We discuss the importance of proper

grade, of monitoring and maintaining the roof, siding/trim & windows and of keeping the building envelope in good

condition. If you keep your siding intact, if you maintain your roof and respond immediately to exterior, roof, attic, basement

and crawl space maintenance issues, and if you keep water away from the foundation, you go a long way towards

reducing the chances of water infiltration and the insidious problems water can cause. Further, it is vital to respond to

plumbing leaks at once and to provide adequate attic, bathroom and crawl space ventilation.

When water problems are noted, immediate steps should be taken to identify the source(s) of intrusion and correct as

needed.

A Word About Mold and Other Indoor Air Contaminants

Susceptibility to mold spores has become a hot topic and a controversial issue among home inspectors, lawyers, and

experts in the field. Numerous companies have entered the very profitable business of delivering mold testing seminars

and test results to the home inspection community. While it is understood that there is a relationship between mold and

health, the fact is there are no acceptable or unacceptable levels of mold contamination set by the Center for Disease

Control, the Environmental Protection Administration, or any other independent authoritative source. Further, there is no

currently recognized standard for mold testing or interpretation of results. Without accepted thresholds, or a nationally

recognized test standard, test results can be interpreted very differently depending on the test protocols and

methodologies used as well as the tester/interpreter's personal opinion.

What do we know for sure? If you can see or smell mold, there is water, moisture or condensation that needs to be

corrected. Some molds can cause health problems for some people. Any visible mold should be cleaned up or removed.

Our clients are very important to us and we believe that the testing and interpretation of mold spore counts should be left

to the true experts in the field, such as immunologists and toxicologists. We do not want to mislead our clients. No matter

how profitable the service, we are simply not capable of rendering sound opinions based on the level of expertise we

currently have. That is why we specifically disclaim these issues in our agreement and do not inspect for or provide an

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opinion on the potential for, or the existence of mold or related damage in the structure.

If you have concerns about mold or other indoor air quality issues we recommend that you contact specialists in the field

such as the CDC the EPA and other true experts. Be prepared to receive differing opinions from different experts. One

thing that the experts agree on is the need to identify the source(s) of the mold—which is related to unwanted

moisture—and to eliminate the source of moisture and to clean up or remove the mold. Please see a specialist for further

advice.

For further information regarding the issues of mold and other indoor air contaminants we recommend that you start by

visiting the Center for Disease Control at http://www.cdc.gov (insert "mold" in their search box) and the Environmental

Protection Administration at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html Other informative articles from a nationally

recognized indoor air quality (IAQ) specialist can be found at www.buildingscience.com .

Don't have a computer? You can log onto these sites for free at almost any local library.

Tips for limiting the chances of a mold problem-- Think: Clean. Dry. Well Ventilated

Here's a few of the things you can do to reduce the risk that mold will become a problem in your home:

•

Keep relative humidity low. Excessive condensation from humidifiers, for example, can cause mold to grow.

•

Fix leaks immediately—whether they are plumbing or structural in nature.

•

Consider getting an infrared insulation scan to find cold spots which need more insulation. Cold spots can allow

moisture to condense on hidden surfaces within walls.

•

Run bath fans when bathing or showering and long enough afterwards to remove all excess moisture.

•

Install an exterior vented kitchen fan. Run the fan when cooking and long enough afterwards to remove excess

moisture.

•

Use ceiling fans to keep air circulating.

•

Thoroughly dry any spills that occur, especially on carpeted surfaces.

•

Be sure your dryer vents to the exterior. Clean the lint filter after every load. Clean the vent pipe regularly.

•

Don't block heat registers or cold air returns. Allow air to circulate along walls, windows and inside closets. Avoid

tightly packed storage against walls as this will restrict air flow and can lead to moisture buildup.

•

Have your furnace and air conditioner cleaned and serviced annually.

•

Consider a make-up air kit (if not already installed) for your furnace.

•

When you replace your furnace and water heater, consider sealed combustion direct vent units.

•

Avoid or limit use of ventless gas fireplaces as they can generate significant amounts of water vapor during

operation. Have fireplaces and chimneys serviced annually.

•

Remove visible moisture on windows and other surfaces.

•

Run a dehumidifier in basements.

•

Seal attic penetrations, such as wiring chases, plumbing vent chases and recessed lights. (Caution: Follow the

manufacturer's instructions for recessed lights to avoid overheating).

•

Fix water intrusion concerns listed in your inspection report, including roof, siding, grade at the foundation, and

gutter and downspout issues as well as any reported signs of leaks.

•

Keep gutters clean and well extended away from the home.

•

Avoid using vinyl wallpaper—vinyl can hold moisture hidden in areas where mold can form.

•

Keep your home clean.

•

Don't store things in a damp basement. Provide plenty of ventilation around stored items even in a dry basement.

•

Open windows in good weather.

•

Think: Clean. Dry. Well ventilated.

◦

Now, let's review drainage at the foundation:

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◦

We know that a high percentage of leaks can be prevented by the intelligent use of gutters & downspouts

and by keeping the grade pitched away from the foundation (yet below siding, including brick).

◦

Gutters are important and so are downspouts. Rain and snowfall shed a surprisingly large volume of water

from roofs to the ground below. We suggest you extend downspout discharge at least 6 feet away from the

foundation to reduce the chances of below grade leaks or foundation problems.

◦

Even slab-on-grade structures can suffer from water problems—these tips apply to all styles of construction.

Note that water problems might also lead to foundation problems, thus our concern is not only with water

intrusion into the structure, but also with the foundation itself. Some soils will exert excess pressure on

foundation walls if they hold too much water. Unless you have a geotechnical engineer test your soils and

examine the underground drainage system for the home, you should assume that the best course is to get

the water away from the structure while keeping it below the level of siding and masonry veneers.

◦

Occasionally, even the best roof and grade drainage won't prevent a below-grade leak. In this case, you

may need the services of a professional foundation contractor to stop water intrusion. Be sure to check their

credentials, verify that they are fully insured and compare estimates. Be careful—some companies propose

unnecessary and expensive repairs. Some use a shotgun to kill a fly.

15.1

Electrical Addendum

General Notes. Our electrical inspection meets the ASHI standards of practice and is done by sampling visibly accessible

wiring and fixtures. We do not move belongings and do not examine every fixture, outlet, wiring run, etc., nor do we

remove insulation, or wall coverings. Covers are not removed, with the exception of the cover of the main electrical panel,

when this can be done safely and without risking damage to finish. Much of the wiring in the home is not visible and not

reviewed. Once the current occupant's belongings have been removed, it's a good idea to check all outlets with a tester

and to look inside cabinets, closets and other obstructed areas before moving in your own belongings. We use a standard

electrical tester to check a sample of outlets. While the tester is generally reliable, it can be fooled by certain improper

wiring practices, which we cannot detect during a general home inspection. More extensive electrical testing and review

can be arranged with a licensed electrician for an additional fee, to be billed at an hourly rate.

Following is a glossary of some of the electrical terms that you may find in your report as well as information on

some upgrades that can enhance the electrical system. This addendum should help you better understand the

terms used in our report, why certain recommendations are given, and why various conditions are a concern.

Even if no electrical defects were discovered in your home, be sure to read the sections on Arc-Fault Circuit

Interrupters and Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters and, if you have an electric oven or dryer, the section on Dryers

and ovens.

Remember, because electrical defects are a safety concern, a qualified electrician should perform all electrical repairs

without delay under a municipal permit. You should ask the electrician to report on any additional deficiencies he sees and

make suggestions for upgrades.

Arc-Fault Circuit-Interrupters (AFCI) are a device intended to reduce the chance of electrical fire by recognizing arcing

(generally from poor connections you can't see) and then shutting down power to the circuit. AFCI's are a new technology

that only became required by the in recent years. At this time, AFCI's are installed for protection of bedroom circuits in new

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homes. They are worth considering as an upgrade for all dwellings; please check with your electrician for further

information.

Abandoned or Cut Off Wiring is wiring that is no longer in service. In some cases it is still live, which is a safety concern;

in others, it can be confused with functional wiring. Common areas to find abandoned wiring are garages, basements and

attics. We recommend that you have wiring that is not in use checked for connection to a live source, and then removed or

properly capped/terminated within an approved junction box.

Ceiling fans that wobble or are too low We suggest having wobbling fans re-balanced or re-mounted as needed to

reduce the chance of a fan or fan parts coming off and causing injury. Wobbling fans can be a sign of improper installation,

loose blades, a loose or missing mounting bracket or other deficiency. Balancing kits for ceiling fans are available at some

lighting stores. We suggest checking the mounting brackets to be sure they are capable of properly holding the fan. When

fans are low, there is risk of a personal injury. An informative article can be found on the web at www.faninfo.com .

Copper and Aluminum conductors at same terminal is improper, because copper and aluminum expand and contract

at different rates. Putting the two under the same terminal, unless that terminal is specifically designed for that purpose,

increases the risk of loose wiring, which can cause unsafe arcing and corrosion to occur.

Damaged Wire When a wire is frayed, nicked or poorly connected, the wire is effectively smaller and more likely to

overheat in the damaged area. Damage also makes contact with live wiring more likely. Due to the potential safety hazard,

it is important that damaged wiring be replaced promptly.

Doubled-up circuitry This is a very common electric panel defect. Most electric panel termination lugs (breakers, fuses,

etc.) are not designed or approved for multiple wires being attached. Adding additional wires where not approved can

overload a circuit, causing nuisance tripping or loss of power. More importantly, adding additional wires can mean loose

connections, which can cause unsafe arcing. Wires should be independently attached for better protection/performance,

unless the devices they are attached to are approved for this use. In some cases, the connection can be made ahead of

the breaker or fuse; in others, additional circuits are needed and sometimes a new panel is needed.

Electric baseboard heaters and electric cords Electrical cords should not be draped over electric baseboard heaters

due to the risk of melting the cord, which could cause a fire. For this reason, current standards typically prohibit outlets

directly above electric baseboard heat. If you have this style heating in any rooms in your home, be sure to take

precautions against allowing cords to touch the heater(s) (and keep furnishings, drapes etc. safely away as well).

Dryers and ovens (240 volt) Recently, electric codes have been updated to improve the safety of electric dryers and

ovens. The electric supply for dryers and ovens used to be three-wire-type with three prong cords. New installations must

be four-wire-type with four-prong cords. If you replace an existing electric dryer or oven or move either to a new location,

you may be required to have the electric supply (wire from the electric panel to the outlet) and the appliance adapted to the

four-wire-type. Also, if upgrading from an old style connection to a new one, there is a required safety alteration (a bonding

strap or screw needs to be removed) inside the appliance. Without the internal wiring change, the old appliance can

actually become unsafe to use. To assure a safe installation, be sure to use a qualified installer.

Exposed wiring refers to wiring that is installed without protection from physical damage. Examples include when an

electric wire is run under floor joists or rafters, along the front of studs, or is installed down or across walls. Appropriate

installations might include: installing the wire through holes in floor joists, above rafters, or by enclosing the wire in conduit

to meet the requirements for protection from physical damage. Exposed wiring at the exterior, inside cabinets and down

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walls is particularly prone to damage and should be corrected as soon as possible. Note: Do not store things on top of or

against wiring—even wiring that does not meet the technical definition of "exposed" can be damaged, causing a hazard.

Extension Cords should not be used for any purpose other than as a temporary power source. Permanent approved

wiring is advised in place of extension cords to any permanently installed electrical component. Extension cords should

never run through walls or floors and should not be run inside cabinets as they can be more easily damaged in these

areas.

Grounding. Until the late 1950s, Grounding in residential systems was required only on the main electric panel. Afterward,

grounding became a requirement for all branch circuits including lights and outlets. The ground wire is normally idle. If

there is a defect, the ground wire acts as an escape route for the electricity, inducing the current to flow through this wire to

the ground, reducing the risk of shock or fire. We use a tester at three-prong outlets to check a sample of outlets for

ground; however, this tester can be fooled by some types of miswiring. Verifying the integrity of grounding systems is a

technically sophisticated procedure that is beyond the scope of a visual building inspection.

Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters (GFCI or GFI) are inexpensive devices that do a great job protecting folks from shocks

at outlets. Once you've closed on the property, we suggest having GFCI protection installed wherever not present on

exterior outlets and near all interior water sources. These specialized outlets (or breakers) shut the power off to a circuit

when as little as .005 amp of electricity is leaking. Under normal conditions, the power flowing out through the black (or

hot) wire will be equivalent to the power flowing back through the white (or neutral) wire. GFCI outlets are designed to

detect these power leaks by comparing the amount of electricity going out through the black wire with the amount coming

back through the white wire. Under current standards, GFCI protection should be provided in kitchens (all countertop

outlets), bathrooms, near all sinks, in garages and unfinished basements, and at exterior outlets. GFCI's should be tested

at least monthly, to assure proper performance. To test a GFCI outlet, plug in a night-light or lamp and push the test

button. If the light goes out, your GFCI is currently working. You may now press the reset button to restore power. The test

a GFCI breaker, just push the test button. Note the GFCI receptacle outlets will protect all other outlets downstream on the

same circuit so you might have a reset button in a bathroom, for example, that protects other receptacles or even lights.

Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters—Ungrounded. GFCI's may also be used for protection on old circuits where

grounding is not feasible. In fact, the only time one can use an ungrounded three-prong outlet is if it is GFCI protected. An

ungrounded GFCI device should be labeled "No Equipment Ground" and any protected outlets downstream of the actual

GFCI device should be marked "No Equipment Ground" and "GFCI Protected." Keep in mind that appliances such as

refrigerators and computers (or any appliance with a three-prong plug) need the ground; so do not use a GFCI in place of

proper grounding in such instances.

Knob and tube electric wiring. This type of wiring was standard many years ago but is now considered outdated. Often

the insulation is dried out and worn, and may be deteriorated in areas that are not visible. When knob and tube wiring is

present, we suggest having an electrician evaluate the integrity of the wiring. In most cases, upgrading is advised. Attic or

wall insulation and belongings should not be placed over this wiring.

Loose Wiring. All electrical wiring should be firmly attached to framing and at fixtures. Wiring should also be fastened near

each fixture, junction box, etc. to help prevent live wires being pulled loose.

Open Knockouts. Knockouts are openings in electrical boxes that are intended for wiring runs. Open knockouts are those

that are not currently in use but that expose live wires in the box. Openings in electrical boxes should be sealed with

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appropriate covers to prevent accidental contact with electrical power. Knockout plugs are generally readily available and

easily installed.

Open splices. Open splicing refers to electrical wiring that has been improperly cut and spliced without proper protection

from physical damage or contact with live wires. Whenever an electric wire is cut, it should be properly spliced and

protected at once. The splice should be encased in a covered, secure junction box to prevent shocks and other risks,

including separation of the splice.

Ovens and Electric dyers. See Dryers and Ovens.

Overfusing is another common electric panel defect. Amateur electricians often create a dangerous situation when they

fail to match the right size wire to the right size overcurrent (breaker/fuse) device. This can allow excessive current to be

carried by the branch wire conductor, which is a fire hazard. Overfusing should be corrected at once. In some cases, the

fix is a simple as installing a properly sized breaker. In others, the wire must be replaced to meet the power demand of the

circuit. If so, this could be much more expensive because it might involve removing wall coverings to run new wires.

Recessed lighting may be a safety concern if insulation is too close and/or lights are improperly installed. Some units are

rated for insulation contact (IC rated) meaning the manufacturer has approved them to be installed in areas where

insulation contact is likely. There are specific requirements as to bulb size and installation practices. Please check all

recessed lights upon occupancy for the manufacturer's recommendations for proper installation instructions (generally

located inside each light). It is common to need to move insulation away from lights as well as to exchange bulbs with the

proper type and wattage.

Reversed polarity is a sign of amateur work and refers to improper wiring of an outlet or circuit where the hot (usually

black) and neutral (usually white) wires are placed on the each other's terminals (reversed). The hot wire should be

installed on the brass screw (short slot side of the outlet) and the neutral wire should be installed on the silver screw (taller

slot side of the outlet). Reversed polarity is generally easily corrected by minor wiring adjustments at the receptacle. It is

important that this correction be made for the safe use of the outlet and those items powered off the receptacle. Note: An

improperly wired outlet anywhere "upstream" of other outlets (on the same circuit) could cause corresponding (and

appropriately wired) "downstream" outlets to show reverse polarity.

Three-prong ungrounded outlet(s). In homes built before the late 1950s, it is common to have ungrounded branch

electrical circuits. Since then, the addition of a third (ground) wire has enhanced safety and is required for modern circuits

and the appliances they service. Two-prong ungrounded outlets may continue to perform well when used with appliances

that come with two-prong cords. They should not be used with three prong cords. A grounded outlet must be used

wherever a grounded (three-prong) appliance is used (refrigerators, laundry appliances, computers, etc.).

We find that many homeowners have improperly changed ungrounded two-prong outlets to newer three prong style outlets

without providing a proper ground. For safe operation, we suggest grounding these outlets. Any circuit added after the late

1950s was required to be grounded. In some cases, a three prong ungrounded GFCI protected outlet can be used. See

the Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters for further information.

Ungrounded outlets. See "Three-prong ungrounded outlets".

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Uncovered electrical fixture(s). Whenever electrical connections are made, they are required to be made within an

approved, covered wiring or junction box. Open junction boxes should have an approved secure cover to prevent risk of

shock or fire. Uncovered receptacles and outlets should also have approved covers.

15.2

Final Walkthrough Pre-Closing Checklist

Please use our complimentary pre-closing checklist on your final walk through of the property. There is a time period between our

inspection and closing that varies with each property. Systems can fail at any time and defects can become visible under different

viewing conditions (weather change, belongings removed etc.) so we urge you to operate all systems prior to closing and check all

areas that may have been hidden from view due to occupant belongings or other obstructions. Bring a couple of light bulbs to check

inoperable light fixtures.

•

Obtain all operational manuals, well/septic records, records of sale (disclosure statement, offer to purchase, and closing

documents), warranties and receipts for recent repairs. Keep them in a file.

•

Check the exterior. Pay particular attention to the roof, especially if there has been a storm since the inspection. Run the

sprinklers if weather permits.

•

Check all interior rooms. Check for moving damage if the homeowner moved out between the inspection and closing.

Operate all windows and doors and check for broken thermal pane seals, loose hardware, etc. Check ceilings for water

stains.

•

Check countertops and interiors of all drawers, cabinets and closets.

•

Check all areas that may have been inaccessible during the inspection due to personal storage, furniture, area rugs, etc. and

check items we don't review such as cosmetic concerns, alarms, intercoms and sound systems.

•

Operate all systems/appliances, sump pump and the garage door. Obtain door transmitters. Do not operate air conditioners

if the temperature is below 65 degrees. Check lights (bring a couple bulbs).

•

Run all faucets and toilets. Fill tubs and sinks. Check for leaks. Run whirlpool tubs.

•

Check basement and/or crawl space. Look for active stains and leaks at walls, floors and under and near plumbing.

•

Check for signs of pests. Many folks do preventative pest control before taking occupancy.

•

If possible, check inside of the attic.

•

Verify that the seller has correctly completed any promised repairs (look at receipts, permits, etc).

•

Verify that the seller has notified you of any changes in the condition of the property since the inspection.

•

If you haven't purchased a home warranty, check with your agent and the web and consider purchasing.

We would like to thank you for allowing us to work with you and we wish you the very best in the future. Remember that we are here

for advice at anytime. Whether it's counsel on something that breaks down or suggestions on a remodeling project, feel free to give us

a call.

Finally, please don't hesitate to recommend us to your friends, we won't mind a bit!

The Appreciative Staff of Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

800.941.9034

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INVOICE

Jeffries Inspection Services, LLC

1835 Sylvan Glen

Keego Harbor, MI 48320

(800) 941-9034

Inspected By: Blake and Grant Jeffries

Inspection Date: 9/22/2025

Report ID: Pearson St. 816, Ferndale

Customer Info:

Inspection Property:

Lynn and Floyd East

Customer's Real Estate Professional:

816 Pearson St.

Ferndale MI 48220

Inspection Fee:

Service

Price

Amount

Sub-Total

Residential Sq Ft 1,000 - 2,000

385.00

1

385.00

Radon test with inspection

150.00

1

150.00

Tax $0.00

Total Price $535.00

Payment Method: Credit Card

Payment Status: Paid At Time Of Inspection

Note:

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